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    Uzbek national motives on world catwalks

  Khan-atlas, adras, suzane, bakhmal, ikat won hearts and were installed in the wardrobes not only of Uzbek fashionistas, but also of world fashionistas.

Perhaps the most popular in the fashion industry have won traditional Uzbek fabrics made with ikat technology. The same word “ikat” came from Indonesia, and comes from the verb “mengikat”, which means “to bind, entwine”.

Traditional ikat is the most complicated and handmade weaving technique: the threads are joined in clusters and then gradually dyed in certain colors. Ikat is characteristic not only for Uzbekistan, however it is the Uzbek pattern that differs in that the pattern is applied only to the warp yarns, while the weft, the transverse threads of the fabric, remains flat. Thus, the fabric takes on a beautiful and complex color dye. Among artisans in Uzbekistan, this technique is called abrband, which means “tied cloud,” but avid fashion designers even in our country refer to printing as ikat.

Fabrics made with the ikat technique are very different and are excellent for sewing clothes, as well as finishing accessories, utensils and interior items. It was the interior designers of the world who first appreciated another type of national decoration, no less charming, suzanne. Panels embroidered with a special technique confidently migrated from the former homes of the wealthy Central Asia to the collection of interior fashion trends and, as a result, houses of modern connoisseurs of comfort and style.

     Oscar de la Renta as the discoverer of ikat for the global fashion community

   In the late 20th century, dressmakers with world names paid close attention to ikat. And the first among those who took ikat to the podium was the founder of the fashion house Oscar de la Renta, who died. Thanks to its spring-summer 2005 collection, this ornament entered the elite and became a fashion trend for clothing and interiors. Of the 59 arches featured on the podium, 6 included clothing and accessories that showcased ikat in all its brilliance, liveliness, and ethnicity.

   In the 2008 collection, de la Renta again chose a multicolour print as its leitmotif, demonstrating completely different facets: moderate, refined and sophisticated.

   Oscar de la Renta also used ikat in the fall 2013 collection.

   Without exaggeration, one can say about the fashion designer’s love for ikat and our love for Oscar for his popularization.

    Ikat from the early 2000s to the present day

  Balenciaga fashion house in the fall 2007 collection supported the idea and secured the status of the main trend of the 2000s for ikat.

   A brilliant Uzbek print appeared simultaneously and very effectively in the Dries Van Noten spring-summer 2010 collections.

   And, of course, Gucci from the same season, which is quite natural, given the influence of the Balenciaga brand mentioned above, which is part of the Gucci Group.

   The L.A.M.B.brand, created in 2003 by singer and actress Gwen Stefani, also did not overlook ikat in the spring 2011 collection.

   Naeem Khan, an American fashion women’s clothing brand and Michelle Obama’s favorite fashion designer, featured several sophisticated and very stylish ikat looks in the Fall 2011 collection.

attends the Starbucks Frappuccino lounge at MBFW Fall 2011 at Lincoln Center on February 17, 2011 in New York City.

    Proenza Schouler, a New York-based women’s clothing and accessories fashion brand, has always been known for high craftsmanship and attention to detail. The fall 2011 collection was no exception when the brand’s founders used ikat to create images for so-called street fashion. The insolence, underlined by a brilliant print, made the collection one of the most popular of the season.

   Ikat and men’s fashion did not turn around. Monitaly’s shirts and shorts are quickly winning the hearts of a strong half of fashionistas.

   Emilio Pucci actively used ikat in the pre-fall 2014 collection. It is worth saying that the brand is known for its love of brilliant images and therefore the use of ikat has become a regularity rather than a surprise. 

   The eccentric Roberto Cavalli did not go through the ikat. Despite the unconditional love of fashion designers for animal prints, ikat took its rightful place in the 2014 cruise collection.

  It was completely clear that with the light hand of the fashion house Oscar de la Renta, ikat firmly secured its right to be present in the designer collections. And the rebel brand Isabel Marant with the fall – winter 2015-2016 collection is confirmation of this.

   It is logical that from the global catwalks our national footprint migrates to the collection of popular brands in the mass market. Zara, HM, Forever 21 quickly picked up the idea and contributed to the popularization of print among fashionable young people around the world.

© Ikat art 2023

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